Nippori Station, located in Arakawa Ward, Tokyo, opened in 1905 (Meiji 38). In 1931 (Showa 6), a Keisei Line station was added, and in 2008 (Heisei 20) the Nippori-Toneri Liner also opened, making Nippori its starting station. In recent years, redevelopment has progressed on the eastern, lowland side of the station, and high-rise buildings have begun to line the area. However, the elevated western side of Nippori Station, where many temples and cemeteries are located, has seen little development. As a result, it retains much of the traditional Japanese scenery, and before the spread of the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) beginning in 2019, many foreign tourists could be seen in the area.

 If we exit the south ticket gate of JR Nippori Station and walk to the left, then turn left again at the T-junction and go up the Momiji-zaka Slope toward Yanaka Cemetery, we will find a temple on our left. This is Tennoji Temple. Today it belongs to the Tendai sect, but it was originally a Nichiren sect temple known as Kannoji.

 Even if we decide to go and see the Five-Story Pagoda ruins, it is difficult to know exactly where it is within this vast cemetery, as the pagoda no longer exists. Along the central avenue called Sakura Street, which is filled with cherry blossoms in spring, there is a police box, and next to it is a small park. This is the place, and at the entrance we will find a sign reading “The Five-Story Pagoda ruins.” If we are not paying close attention, we might simply walk past it.

 When we enter the park, we will see a fenced-off area straight ahead. This is where the five-story pagoda once stood. Foundation stones remain at the site, and an explanatory sign has been installed. Immediately behind this fenced area are playground structures, and although the surroundings are filled with graves, children can sometimes be seen playing happily there.

 The five-story pagoda was first built in 1644 (Kan’ei 21; the first year of the Tenpō era), but about 130 years later, in 1772 (Meiwa 9; the first year of the An’ei era), it was destroyed by a great fire. It was later rebuilt in 1791 (Kansei 3) and survived the Ueno War (part of the Boshin War), the Great Kanto Earthquake, and World War II, continuing to stand on this site. It was also famous as the model for the novel "The Five-Story Pagoda" by Kōda Rohan and served as a landmark of Yanaka. However, on July 6, 1957 (Showa 32), it was destroyed by arson.