Ueno Toshogu Shrine is located in Ueno Park, Taito Ward, Tokyo. It was founded in 1627 (Kan’ei 4) and enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, as its deity. The shrine was rebuilt in 1651 (Keian 4) under the order of the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. Although the Imperial Envoy Gate and the corridor were destroyed by fire in 1866 (Keiō 2), the Karamon Gate, Sukibei (openwork fence), Worship Hall, and Main Hall are the original structures built under Iemitsu’s direction.
 During the Battle of Ueno at the end of the Edo period (the Boshin War), the forces of the new government clashed with the Shogitai, a group loyal to the former shogunate, at Kaneiji Temple. Many temple buildings and sub-temples were burned down, but Ueno Toshogu miraculously escaped the destruction. The shrine also survived the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 (Taisho 12) without collapsing or burning.
 During World War II, Tokyo suffered devastating air raids in 1945 (Showa 20). In one of the largest attacks, 344 American B-29 bombers dropped incendiary bombs over the city at night, killing about 100,000 people and burning down approximately 270,000 houses. At Ueno Toshogu, an incendiary bomb reportedly landed just behind the Golden Hall, but it was fortunately a dud and did not explode.
 In the Meiji period, due to the government’s separation of Shinto and Buddhism, the shrine’s five-story pagoda was transferred to Kaneiji Temple (it is now managed by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government). As a result, the precincts became smaller than in the Edo period. For this reason, although the pagoda can still be seen nearby, it now stands within Ueno Zoo.
 Nevertheless, many of the shrine buildings constructed in the early Edo period have miraculously survived, and their beautiful appearance can still be admired today.

 Within the grounds of Ueno Toshogu Shrine is the Peony Garden. It was opened in 1980 to commemorate friendship between Japan and China. The garden is not open year-round; it opens only during the seasons when flowers are in bloom. Peonies are displayed in winter and spring, and dahlias (tenjiku-botan) are displayed in autumn. An admission fee is required. For details on the opening periods and admission fees, please check the official website of Ueno Toshogu Shrine.
 The photo below shows the winter peonies in 2020. According to the official website, 160 plants of 40 varieties are cultivated in winter. Many beautiful peonies in a wide range of colors were in full bloom. Plum blossoms were also blooming, filling the air with a delightful fragrance. From inside the garden, the five-story pagoda is clearly visible, making it wonderful to enjoy the view together with the flowers.